The Thrilling Mount Hood Adventures Of The Wy East Climbers 1930-1942

The Wy East Climbers were a group of intrepid mountaineers who undertook daring expeditions on Mount Hood, Oregon, during the years 1930 to 1942. This period marked a significant chapter in the history of mountaineering in the Pacific Northwest, with the Wy East Climbers achieving remarkable feats on one of America's most iconic mountains.

The Birth of the Wy East Climbers

Inspired by the legendary ascents of early pioneers such as William Gladstone Steel, who had summited Mount Hood in 1887, a group of adventurous individuals formed the Wy East Climbers in 1930. The name "Wy East" is a Native American term for Mount Hood and was chosen to honor the mountain's rich cultural heritage.

Comprising a diverse range of individuals, including experienced mountaineers, nature enthusiasts, and even a few thrill-seeking amateurs, the Wy East Climbers shared a common love for the mountain and a desire to conquer its challenging slopes. Together, they embarked on a series of expeditions that would etch their names in Mount Hood's history.

Mount Hood: Adventures of the Wy’east Climbers, 1930–1942

by Haider al-Abadi(Kindle Edition)

5 out of 5

Language	:	English
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Conquering the Forbidden North Face

One of the most daring and celebrated achievements of the Wy East Climbers was their conquest of the once deemed "forbidden" North Face of Mount Hood. Prior to their expeditions, this treacherous section of the mountain had never been successfully climbed, earning a reputation for being incredibly dangerous and virtually impassable.

Undeterred by the daunting challenge, the Wy East Climbers meticulously planned their ascent, studying the mountain's topography and weather patterns. After months of preparation, they set off early one morning in June 1932, armed with cutting-edge climbing gear and resilient spirits.

The arduous climb demanded precision and skill, as the Wy East Climbers navigated steep ice walls, narrow ridges, and precarious crevasses. They persevered through freezing temperatures, blinding snowstorms, and the constant risk of avalanches. Despite the hardships, the team's unwavering determination paid off, and on June 15th, 1932, they became the first ever to reach the summit via the North Face.

Exploring the Untrodden Glacier Caves

While their conquest of the North Face was their most notable achievement, the Wy East Climbers' adventures extended beyond vertical ascents. In the winter months, when much of Mount Hood was transformed into a mesmerizing winter wonderland, they turned their attention to exploring the glacier caves hidden within the mountain.

Equipped with lanterns and ice axes, the climbers ventured deep into the frozen caverns, their every step echoing through the ancient ice. The caves revealed an otherworldly beauty, with intricate ice formations and ethereal blue hues that seemed to come alive under the flickering lantern light.

But the exploration of glacier caves came with its own set of dangers. Hidden crevasses, unstable ice pillars, and the constant threat of collapse added an element of risk to their endeavors. Nevertheless, the Wy East Climbers persisted, documenting their discoveries and mapping out the intricate network of caves that lay beneath the surface of Mount Hood.

The Impact of WWII and the End of an Era

As the 1940s dawned, the world underwent significant changes, and the shadow of war loomed over the Pacific Northwest. Many members of the Wy East Climbers found themselves answering the call to duty, leaving their mountaineering pursuits behind.

The advent of World War II marked the end of an era for the Wy East Climbers. Their expeditions became less frequent, and the camaraderie that once defined the group gradually faded away. While they continued to undertake individual climbs throughout the war years, the collective spirit that had propelled them to greatness had dispersed.

Legacy and Inspiration

The adventures of the Wy East Climbers left an indelible mark on the history of Mount Hood mountaineering. Their accomplishments not only pushed the boundaries of what was possible on the mountain, but they also inspired future generations of climbers to dream big and embrace the spirit of exploration.

Today, the legacy of the Wy East Climbers lives on in the hearts of those who seek adventure on Mount Hood. Their feats remind us of the human capacity for courage, resilience, and the pursuit of the seemingly impossible. The spirit of the Wy East Climbers endures as a testament to the enduring allure of Mount Hood and the eternal quest for discovery.

Keywords: Mount Hood, Wy East Climbers, mountaineering, North Face, Pacific Northwest, glacier caves, World War II, legacy, exploration

Mount Hood: Adventures of the Wy’east Climbers, 1930–1942

by Haider al-Abadi(Kindle Edition)

5 out of 5

Language	:	English
File size	:	3340 KB
Text-to-Speech	:	Enabled
Screen Reader	:	Supported
Enhanced typesetting	:	Enabled
Word Wise	:	Enabled
Print length	:	532 pages
Lending	:	Enabled

FREE

In an effort to capture the historic and humorous experiences of Depression Era alpinists on Oregon's Mount Hood before they were lost for good, Ric Conrad began interviewing members of the Wy'east Climbers. Hank Lewis, Lu Norene, Russ McJury, and Randall Kester shared their memories of historic first ascents and unusual tragedies. Conrad additionally interviewed mountaineers who climbed beside club members: John Carter, Dr. Charles Loveland, Robert Labby, and Darrel Tarter. They provided insight into the region's most fascinating peak and the various outlaws who climbed alongside club members. The oral history gleaned from these interviews, coupled with extensive research in the archives of the Portland-based Mazamas, has yielded the most thorough picture of the Golden Age of exploration on Mount Hood.

Members of the Wy'east Climbers, founded in December 1930, made the first ascents of the Leuthold Couloir Route, Sandy Glacier Headwall, and Eliot Glacier Headwall. They made the first ascent of an extremely difficult variation along the North Face and reopened several climbing routes: The Wy'east Trail, Cathedral Ridge, and the Newton-Clark Headwall Route. Club members were also responsible for forming the Mt. Hood Ski Patrol in 1938, and for their involvement in the rescue or recovery operations throughout the 1930s and 1940s. Working six days a week during the Great Depression, these young men nevertheless established new climbing routes, new rescue organizations, and provided the mountaineering community with inspiration for generations to come.